Midnight View from Borganes, Iceland

Late evening approaches in the ever-present light, as once again we have packed our day full driving along this surreal landscape of towering mountains and ubiquitous winds and clouds. As always it is windy and chill as we stop for a dinner of specialty pasta on a mountain pass, 1933 Hredavatnsskali, just north of Borganes, our evening destination. Sparse tables and chairs on timber flooring surrounded by shelves of specialty pastas is a welcome respite at the end of the day. Our host shows us his weather app displaying wind speeds and regals us with somber stories of tourist vans and campers blown over on the pass in the regular high winds. We are glad to have a low profile Nissan as we leave with lemon pasta and a goatskin as souvenirs. The Borganes B&B is a symphony in luxury. We have a small suite with bedroom, sitting room, and patio with two wrought iron chairs overlooking the sea. Silky soft bamboo sheets and woven wool blankets atop downy comforters keep us snug and warm. A walk around the designer house unfolds in architectural beauty; gorgeous gray slate bathroom floors and countertops, teak wood walls and doors, cedar floors, expansive hallways with exquisite bathrooms.

A kitchen out of the pages of Architectural Digest has a tea nook with specialty teas and a magnificent collection of cups as we pour a bedtime brew at midnight. A sewing and crafts area with antique storage chests and cabinets lining the dining room features a long farmhouse table. An expansive archway adjoining the living area with an array of wrap around couches that face spectacular all-night-always-sunset framed in the wall of windows overlooking the ocean and coastline silhouette of this maritime town. Greg sits at the living room window framed by the pink of the on-going sunset as I make our tea. Icelandic sweaters and crafts are artfully displayed along hooks in the dining area wall as yarns and needles rest on the crafts table awaiting the next rows of knit-purl patterns. There are four guestrooms, along with the hostess quarters, in this demure mansion by the sea and we bask in all of its charms and elegance. After tea on our private balcony we sink into luxury sheets and fall fast asleep.

Breakfast the next morning is a gourmet feast of frittata, pancakes, meats, and pastries. On the drive through town we stop at the delightful coffee shop, Kaffi Kyrd with rooms for relaxing and unique gift shop nooks scattered amid the couches, tables, and outdoor deck. The Icelandic Settlement Center in Borganes is tempting, but we are anxious to explore the ocean roads and national parks areas of this warmer peninsula.

We make one stop before leaving town and savor the expansive Borganes Bay view.