on the edge of the Greenland Sea

1_HusavikIcelandic Horses against the backdrop of Flateyjarskagi

Heavy clouds spin a steely-gray wool covering over land and sea. The epic white-peaked mountains of the Flateyjarskagi Peninsula, across from Husavik on the Skjáfandi Bay, provide a breathtaking backdrop to Icelandic horses galloping across pastures at the edge of the seacliffs on Norðausturvegur 85 into Husavik. We pull into the architecturally lovely town of Husavik with our signature tardiness, netted by fascination with spells of beauty strewn across the upper landscapes of black lava Ódáðahraun to the boiling orange cauldrons of Hverir. Once again getting into town so late, shops are readying for closing time. I have just enough time to pick up an Icelandic knit hat with warm flannel lining and a copy of the Njall Saga at the bookstore across the street from the harbor. A stop at the whale watching docks bodes poor tidings. Boats were cancelled today because of rain and fierce winds. The few boats that did go out early came back early with sea-sickened tourists. We cross our fingers for the next day’s weather for our planned whaling excursion.

1_Husavik Set

Rain guides us as we follow signs beyond town along Norðausturvegur 85 out to our guest stay in Tungulending, turning into a long farm driveway with a small handmade café sign affixed to a swing gate designating our entry point. I get out of the car to swing the gate open, then close it after Greg drives through, as instructed on the sign. The road drops precariously, carved into the side of sea cliffs, and deposits us at the lovely guesthouse of Tungulending poised pleasantly right on the edge of the Greenland Sea.


We park near our designated entryway, take off our shoes as is the Icelandic custom, don slippers provided, and drag suitcases up the narrow wooden staircase to our room. The café is closed so we make tea to sit and review bird charts and watch eider ducks float past our window. I read aloud from the children’s book of Njalls, the Settlement Saga, as the sun lingers through the summer sky. At the end of tea and Saga, we climb the narrow staircase and drop into bed.

1_Tungulending set2

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